I have been using DAP Alex plus caulk on trim for 15 years and covering with paint with no issues. Two jobs now and I’m getting these spider...

• I've been using dynaflex 230. It is not immediately paintable though. But I don't have any call backs from it cracking. It handles completely different from any of the fast dry stuff.

• We never have issues with Sherman Williams 950A and the 1050QD. Also, Big Stretch has a huge following. I just haven’t used it myself.

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Contractor who remodeled our bathroom used non-sanded grout between bathtub (acrylic) and first layer of tile. He said that he recommends that instead of caulk as caulk will be trapping moisture and

• FILL THE TUB TO WEIGH IT DOWN!

• Take your time. Don't rush it or you'll be doing it again within a year or two. It might take two nights to get the old caulk all out. So what. You want a job that will last.

• Clean out all the old caulk. Use a 1" paint scraper, razor blade scraper, knife, maybe high grit sandpaper so long as the part sanded will be caulked over.

• Buy the most expensive Tub and Tile caulk you can find. I prefer GE. You don't want to have to do the job again and $10 - $15 isn't much when you consider the aggravation of redoing it.

• Right before caulking saturate a portion of a clean cloth with rubbing alcohol and force it into the joint. Wipe it once from each direction to make sure its clean. Then let it dry.

• Cut the caulk tube diameter to the width of the average gap.

• Caulk the gap, not the tub or tile outside surface. The caulk needs to contact both inner surfaces, but for aesthetics, don't overlap the two outside surfaces more than about 1/8".

• After caulking the gap along one wall, dip the smallest finger that will bridge the gap in rubbing alcohol and quickly and firmly wipe straight down the gap. If not suitable, wipe the finger with a piece of toilet paper, fold, discard, re-Hopdip finger in alcohol, and repeat.

• PULL TAPE IMMEDIATELY! DON'T LET THE CAULK SET

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eLnVB-u0txs

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